A healthy lawn adds beauty, curb appeal, and functional space for families and pets. It creates a visual “breathing room” between gardens and structures.
If your lawn is looking thin or patchy, the best time to bring it back to life is early fall — ideally September through mid-October. During this period, soil is still warm enough for grass seed to germinate, while cooler air temperatures make growing conditions ideal. In Bucks County, aim to seed by October 15 — about two weeks before the chance of a hard frost.
Tools You’ll Need
- Gloves
- Leaf or Spring Rake
- Bow or Stiff Rake
- Rotary or drop spreader
- Rain gauge
- Lawn sprinkler and hose
- Mower and string trimmer
- Optional Rentals: Power rake and aerator
Step 1: Test Your Soil
- Start in August so you have time to prepare before seeding season.
- Send a soil sample to your local Penn State Cooperative Extension for a complete test, or use Jonathan Green Soil pH Test Kit.
- Based on results, apply soil conditioners such as Mag-I-Cal or lime.
Step 2: Remove Weeds
- Apply an herbicide such as Round-Up or Dr. Earth’s Final Stop.
- Mark any irrigation heads to avoid damaging them during aeration.
Step 3: Mow Short
- Cut the grass very short to prepare the lawn for renovation.

Step 4: Remove Thatch
- Use a stiff rake or power rake to pull up the thatch layer.
- Collect and compost debris with a rake or mower.
What is Thatch?
Thatch is a layer of roots, stems, and runners that builds up between soil and grass blades. A thin layer (about ¼ inch) is beneficial, but too much prevents water and nutrients from reaching the roots. Excess thatch often results from over-fertilizing or poor lawn care practices.

Step 5: Aerate
- Use a rented aerator to remove plugs of soil and thatch. This reduces compaction and allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the root zone.
- Pro tip: If you’d prefer not to use an aerator, try Jonathan Green’s Love Your Soil®, which naturally loosens compacted soil.



What is Lawn Core Aeration?
Core aeration is done using a machine with hollow tines to mechanically remove plugs or “cores” of soil and thatch from a lawn. This helps reduce soil compaction, creating a channel through which oxygen, water, and nutrients can penetrate the soil. This is an ANNUAL PROCESS for good lawn care. It is also good to do prior to reseeding a lawn because it creates pockets for seeds to fall into.

Step 6: Level Depressed Areas
- Use organic topsoil and a stiff rake to fill small low spots.
- Heavily compacted areas may require tilling
Step 7: Apply Soil Nutrients
- Mag-I-Cal
- Love Your Soil
- Lawn Fungus Control (if needed)
Step 8: Seed the Lawn
- Use a broadcast spreader to evenly apply high-quality grass seed.
- For best results, cover with EZ Straw or a seed mulch to keep moisture in and encourage germination.



Step 9: Water
- Keep the seedbed consistently moist.
- Germination takes about 14 days under proper conditions.



Step 10: First Mow
- Mow when the new grass reaches about 4 inches tall (usually 4–5 weeks after seeding).
Follow-Up Care
The Following Spring
- Apply Veri-Green Crabgrass Preventer or Corn Gluten pre-emergent.
- Begin the Jonathan Green 4-Step Program
- For an organic approach, use Corn Gluten Weed Preventer, Organic Lawn Food, and Organic Insect Control.
- Remember: Organics may allow for some weeds, but improve long-term soil and lawn health.
Next Fall
- Repeat aeration and overseeding as part of annual maintenance.
- Apply Mag-I-Cal and Winter Survival products.
- Keep fallen leaves off the lawn to avoid suffocating the grass.
General Lawn Care Tips
- Properly identify pests and diseases before treatment.
- Fungus is especially difficult to manage once established — prevention is key.
- Keep mower blades sharp.
- Maintain a mowing height of 3–4 inches for the healthiest turf.
With proper preparation this fall, you’ll enjoy a greener, healthier lawn next year — one your neighbors will envy!
I always thought a yard was three feet, then I started mowing the lawn.
